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Different Kinds of Pots for Growing Cannabis

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There are many different kinds of pots for growing cannabis, and depending on where you grow, how you grow, and what pots you use, you’ll obtain one result or another. Not all pots are the same, and some have some pretty unique characteristics that differentiate them from others, like how airy they are or how the plants’ roots grow in them. In this article we’re going to explain the main differences between these pots so that you know which to use in your grow.

There are various kinds of flowerpot that are classified in two groups; plastic flowerpots and fabric flowerpots. There are many more kinds of plastic flowerpots than there are fabric ones. We’re going to talk about all of the different models so that you can easily tell them apart.

Your plants will easily adapt to each kind of pot, and depending on which on you use your plant will grow out a certain way – plants tend to grow in the same shape as their roots, which means they grow the same shape as the pot – if you place your plant in a square pot it will grow out in a square, and if you look at it from above you’ll see it has an X shape. If your pot is deeper than it is wide, then you’ll end up with a plant that’s taller than it is wide, and if you have a pot that’s just as wide as it is tall then you’ll have a plant that is as wide as it is tall.

Different Kinds of Pots for Growing Cannabis:

Square plastic flowerpot
Square plastic pots are generally the most used in growing cannabis, as they have the perfect size and shape to efficiently place more plants and make the most out of the space you have available, both indoors and outdoors. They’re much deeper than they are wide, so this will be reflected in your plants, making them the perfect shape for indoor growing and allowing you to place more side by side. Within the category of plastic pots, you can get both black and white pots – white pots are generally used for growing outdoors, where the sunlight can bounce off the pots rather than heating your roots and possibly stressing them out. Black pots are used indoors, where the light isn’t strong enough to penetrate the flowerpot, so they don’t heat up and stress out your roots. You can get pots from 0.20L, which are the smallest ones, up to 11L.

Aeropot flowerpot
Aeropot flowerpots are pots that prune your plant’s roots so that they never stop growing secondary roots. When growing cannabis plants in this pot, the plants will grow just as wide as they do tall, and in some cases even wider. Due to having so many secondary roots your plants will grow out wide, kind of like bushes, and due to the fact that the roots are constantly growing, your plant won’t stop growing either until the roots have completely filled the pot. These pots are ideal for when you want to transplant your plant outdoors in your garden or in a guerilla grow, where you don’t want your plant to be 3m tall and easily visible by prying eyes; using these pots will guarantee you compact plants that are full of thick long colas of bud. For indoor growing these plants are ideal for mother plants, from which you’ll be able to get never ending clones until you need to transplant it to a bigger pot. Apart from all of that, your plant’s roots will get much more oxygen and they’ll feed much better than with a completely closed pot. Make sure to water them slowly, keeping away from the edges of the pot or the water might start flowing out the sides. Available in 1L, 3L, 6L, 10L, 15L, 25L and 50L.

Special Autoflowering Pot
These pots are plastic, 18L white pots that are absolutely perfect for growing bigger autoflowering strains such as Deimos, Magnum or Big Devil XL. Due to the fact that these autoflowering strains take about three months to complete their cycle, they need quite a lot of substrate in which to grow their roots. They also need to have more soil in order to retain more humidity for hot outdoor days. If you were to plant a three month strain in a 7L pot like other autos then they’ll have just enough water for one day when they’re fully grown – add on the fact that water evaporates when it gets hot, and you have a recipe for disaster. With this autoflowering pot you’ll have the perfect amount of space and substrate for your plants to get enough water that they need once they get bigger. Keep in mind that due to having so much soil at the start you need to water carefully, as if you over-water your plants at the start they can grow out rather dwarfed. Only available in 18L.

Round white handled pots
These white round handled pots are generally used for flowering seasonal outdoor plants or to keep mother plants indoors. When you grow cannabis plants you need to transplant them just like someone whose grown out of their shoes – your plants shouldn’t go into these pots right at the beginning, as the smallest size available is 30L and you’ll need to start off small and slowly move up to different, bigger pots – 3.5L, 7L, 11L etc. Generally, growers tend to let the plants grow out more in 11L pots and then do the transplant to a 30L pot once the light changes and your plants will soon begin to flower. You can even grow them in 30L pots and transplant to 50L pots once the flowering period rolls around. Available in 30L, 40L and 50L.

Cannabis grow bags
Grow bags gained quite a lot of popularity, as they’re extremely comfortable and easy to use. You need to clean normal flowerpots after every use, whereas with these bags all you need to do is throw them out and replace them with a new one – you can clean them if you want and reuse them a few times but it’s much easier to just chuck them out, which is what they’re made for. They’re much taller than they are wide, and they have a round and elongated shape, making them perfect for indoor growing where you can place many of them in small spaces. You can plant an enormous amount of clones in a small amount of space with the 2,2L or 4,4L bags. You can also plant pretty much any strain you’d like as they also come in a 44L format. They’re extremely easy to transplant, as all you have to do is cut the bag and place your plant and its roots to a bigger bag or to our outdoor garden. Available in 2.2L, 4.4L, 8.8L, 12L, 22L, 30L, and 44L.

Grid flowerpot
These flowerpots are designed for growing in hydroponics or aeroponics, where the plant’s roots are suspended in clay balls, receiving a constant water flow. Depending on your system you’ll need a specific sized grid flowerpot. The smallest ones are used for cloning in hydro and aero, where you’ll need to have them in order to hold the clay balls while your clones put down their roots – they can also be used in systems such as Dutch Pot Hydro, where 5 of these little pots are used with a 12L flowerpot. The bigger ones are for different systems, like the 3” ones for Amazon by Nutriculture or 6” for the DWC Pot by Neptune. They’re extremely resistant and easy to clean and reuse time and time again.

Fabric flowerpot
Texpots are an innovative form of flower “pot” made out of fabric so that your plants’ roots can breathe properly, especially in dry climates. Due to being so aired out, the roots will be permanently prunes which will ensure a speedy and lengthy growth, which will lead to a bud-monster during the flowering period. You can wash them in any old washing machine, meaning that after every grow all you have to do is pop them in the washing machine, dry them and they’re ready to go again. They use a similar system to Aeropot flowerpots when it comes to growing roots, and they’re also round, although the big difference is that these pots are made out of fabric. You can get them in both black and white for indoor and outdoor growing; available in 1L, 3L, 7L, 15L, 25L and 50L.

If you have any questions or doubts, leave a comment down below and our team of experts will get back to you as soon as possible.

Author: Javier Chinesta
Translation: Ciara Murphy

Different kinds of pots for growing cannabis explained, so you know which one is the flowerpot for you and why to use each pot.

What’s the Best Pot? Containers Explained

Table of Contents

Which growing container works best for cannabis? What is it that makes some containers better than others?

The answers are contained in the roots of your cannabis plants. The idea behind choosing the right container is to pick one that is going to provide the best possible environment for your cannabis roots. Your roots are like the “heart” of your of your cannabis plant. They need to be healthy for your plant to get nutrients and grow.

What do marijuana roots want?

Happy cannabis roots want…

Moist at all times – roots die when they dry out! Good watering practices combined with a great growing medium will make sure your roots never dry out

Oxygen – your roots “breathe” oxygen, so one of the best things you can do for them is make sure they always have access to plenty of oxygen – more oxygen to the roots = faster growth

Nutrients – your roots “find” nutrients at the roots, and then deliver them to the rest of the plant, so making sure your plant has easy access to nutrients will help your plants thrive and make buds

pH Management – Some nutrients are sensitive to the pH of their environment. When exposed to the wrong pH, the molecular form of these nutrients actually changes. Nutrients in the wrong chemical form become unavailable to your plant roots. Exposing nutrients to the correct pH reverts them back to a form your roots can take in.

Bottled Cannabis Nutrients

Managing pH is especially important when using bottled nutrients.

Using bottled nutrients gets the nutrients to your plant faster (which equals faster growth), but it also means you are in charge of managing the pH.

These systems deliver nutrients directly to the plant roots in their simplest form, but there is no “middle man” between you and the plant roots, leaving you in charge.

So if you’re using bottle nutrients, make sure you manage your pH!

Amended & Composted Soil

When starting your cannabis grow with properly amended and composted soil, pH isn’t as important for you to manage. Instead of managing pH, you need to manage and care for the bacteria and microorganisms in the soil. In a proper composted soil setup, the microorganisms deliver nutrients to your roots in the right form. They become the “middle man.”

Types of Containers

There are many kinds of popular rowing containers for cannabis gardens…

Standard plant container with saucer

Here’s a breakdown of those different container options…

Standard plant container with saucer

This is a container with a hole at the bottom for drainage, plus a saucer to catch the water.

Tried and true method

Easy to find at any gardening store

Saucer captures runoff water for easy disposal

Smart pots (fabric containers)

More oxygen to the roots

Prevents plants from getting “root-bound” via “air-pruning” from the sides

Since growing medium dries out from the sides, smart pots make it difficult to overwater your plants, but that also means you will end up watering more often

Since smart pots dry out faster than regular cannabis containers, you should get double the size as your normally would, and it’s recommended your final size should be at least a 5-gallon container (anything smaller than that dries out in just a day or two!). So if you would normally get a 2-gallon container, you’d want to get a 5-gallon smart pot.

Need an extra large saucer or a tray to capture runoff water – smart pots don’t come with a saucer or tray and they seep out water from the sides

Air pots

More oxygen to the roots

Helps prevent plants from getting “root-bound” via “air-pruning” from the sides

Since growing medium dries out from the sides, air pots make it difficult to overwater your plants, but that also means you will end up watering more often

Although water seeps out the sides when watering, air pots are tall and thin so you can use a regular size saucer for each container

Hempy Buckets

Like a regular plant container except instead of having drainage holes out the bottom, they are located near the bottom on the sides

This leaves a small pool of water in the bottom of the container after watering

Need to water less often with hempy buckets, which is a great advantage when growing larger plants that drink a lot

Can sometimes lead to root or nutrient problems since stagnant water can sit at the bottom of the container and any nutrient buildup never gets rinsed out


How to Catch Water Runoff

The two most popular ways of capturing runoff water in small containers are…

Individual saucers for each container

Trays to catch runoff from several containers


Most regular plant containers come with a matching saucer. These are placed under the plant and catch the runoff water for each individual plant.

When using a container that lets air in through the sides (such as a smart pot or air pot), you will need a larger than normal saucer to capture all the runoff water, since water will be seeping down the sides of the container.

One of the problems with saucers is you usually remove them from under the plants to empty the runoff water (always remove runoff – never let it sit so it’s seeped back up into the growing medium!). This is easy with just a few plants, but can become a problem when growing with a lot of plants in a small space. It can be difficult to get to the saucers in the back after the grow space has been filled up with plants.

If you’re having trouble emptying out all your plant saucers, you may want to consider an alternative to regular saucers…


If you want to capture the water from a lot of plants in one space, I recommend using a tray set one a slight incline, so the part of the tray furthest away from you is raised slightly off the ground.. With even a tiny incline, the runoff water will pool at the front of the tray, and a wet vac can be used to capture all the water from the plants. This can be a lot easier than emptying saucers, depending on your setup.

As a bonus to using a tray, you won’t have to move your plants around as much, which results in better and faster growth. Plants don’t like being moved around if you can help it.

How to pick up the water from your tray?

  • Wet/Dry vacuum
  • Water transfer pump

I found the “Bucket Head” attachment at Home Depot which costs about $25 and can be attached to any standard bucket, turning it into an ultra-cheap wet/dry vacuum.

Which Size Container?

Final Size Container for Desired Plant Size – General guide

When choosing the size of your containers, you must think about the final size of your plant. Bigger plants will need bigger containers, while smaller plants grow best in a relatively small container. You need to match the size of your plant with the size of your container.

A general guide is to have up to 2 gallons per 12″ of height. This isn’t perfect, since plants often grow differently, and some plants are short and wide instead of tall, but this is a good rule of thumb.

So if your final (desired) plant size is…

2-3 gallon container

3-5 gallon container

6-8 gallon container

8-10 gallon container

12+ gallon container

Lots of different types of containers will work for growing cannabis as long as it has good drainage holes out the bottom

If you’re using a Smart Pot (fabric pot) or any container that lets in oxygen from the sides, you’ll get faster growth than a hard-sided container. However you will also need to water your plants more often since the soil will dry out more quickly.

Therefore it’s recommended to get twice the normal size if you get fabric pots so the soil doesn’t dry out as fast.

Get twice the normal size if the container lets oxygen in from the sides (like fabric pots and air pots)

Which size container should you start with? Start Small

To start, your plants will do best in a relatively small container. This helps prevent the chances of overwatering (since the container is so small) and since a small container dries out quickly, it will deliver more oxygen to the roots.

Many growers start their plants in a solo cup or a 1-gallon pot.

As mentioned earlier, some growers start their marijuana plants in their final container, which is usually larger than a 1-gallon pot. Starting in a big container isn’t as simple as starting with a small container, and can cause slower growth at first, but here’s you can take to get a seedling to grow quickly in a large container.

Once the leaves reach the edges of the solo cup it’s time to transfer to a larger container. These seedlings are getting close!

How to water seedlings or clones in a too-big container

When starting seedlings in a big container (bigger than 2-gallon), it’s important to slowly give just a little bit of water at a time until your seedling “grows into” its pot. This prevents overwatering, which slows down seedling growth.

By watering the right amount in the seedling stage, you can speed up growth significantly, especially during that first week or two.

For new seedlings you should give water in a small circle around the plant instead of saturating the whole container.

Don’t give water again until the top inch of potting mix is dry to the touch (which should be less than a few days if you did your job right). This makes sure your seedlings get a perfect mix of air and water so it grows as fast as possible.

Make sure to give water slowly in a small circle around seedlings until you get runoff water out the bottom of the container. This makes sure that water is getting to your plant’s roots but isn’t over-saturating the container.

After plant has started to “grow into” it’s container, the top inch of potting mix will start drying out quickly (less than a few days). At this point, you can start normal cannabis watering practices which means you saturate the whole growing medium until you get about 20% runoff water

How to water cannabis seedlings or clones in a too-big container

Beginning Stage

This is for when you’ve just planted your cannabis seeds or clones in a too-big container. By giving your young plants less water at a time following the steps below, you prevent overwatering which can slow down seedling or clone growth in a too-big container.

  • Pour water slowly in a small circle around the base of the seedling (I first pour my water into a solo cup so that it’s easy to pour water around each plant).
  • The circle should be

2 inches in every direction from the base of your seedling (or if your seedlings are bigger, about the width of the leaves).

  • Every time, make sure to continue watering slowly in a circle until you get runoff water out the bottom of the container. Make sure to remove runoff water so it doesn’t get re-absorbed through the bottom of the container.
  • Don’t water again until the top inch (up to your first knuckle) is starting to feel dry to the touch.
  • Regular Watering Stage

    Once your marijuana plants have established healthy root systems that can support the size of your container, you can start watering as normal.

    • Once the top of the growing medium is drying out quickly, in less than than 2-3 days, you’re past the beginning stage.
    • Switch to normal watering practices. This means that you are watering the entire container until you get 20% runoff every time. Then don’t water again until the top inch (up to your first knuckle) is starting to feel dry to the touch.

    Important: Always wait until the top inch (up to your first knuckle) is starting to feel dry to the touch before watering your plant again. This prevents both overwatering and fungus gnats 🙂

    Transplanting for faster growth

    Transplanting means that you start your plants in a relatively small container, and then transplant the plants as needed so that their roots never run out of room.

    Transplanting will provide your plants with faster growth if done right. This is because transplanting allows you to set up an environment where your roots are getting access to plenty of water and air. However, transplanting can stress your plants (and slow down growth) if not done properly. When transplanting, it’s important to carefully move plants so that their roots are not disrupted in any way. This means moving plants before they get root-bound, and creating a hole in the potting mix of their new container so the plants can be placed right in without disturbing the roots.

    If you plan on starting your plants in a small solo cup and transplanting your plants to bigger containers as needed, take a look at this transplanting guide.

    While transplanting makes it easier to give your young plants access to plenty of water and air, it can stress the plants if not done right, and it can also be too much work for some growers. So many growers start their plant in it’s final container.

    When seedlings or clones are started in a large container, it can be difficult to get enough air to the roots until the plant is bigger and drinking a lot. Thisis because when the potting mix gets soaked, the seedling roots just won’t be able to drink it fast enough, and the roots will end up sitting in stagnant water with very little acces to oxygen. The growing medium has to dry out on it’s own, which can take a while, and your plant will be droopy and overwatered until the roots start getting access to air again.

    Some growers start their seedlings or clones in a bigger pot, or even the final container they plan to use. While this can slow down growth of young seedlings, you can minimize this effect by watering young plants correctly when they’re started in a too-big container.

    Here’s a very quick breakdown of some of the most common cannabis growing mediums for a hand-watered grow. This is not a comprehensive list, but should give you a place to start your research. Each of these different growing mediums have pros and cons.

    Soilless (coco coir, perlite, vermiculite, etc)

    Store-Bought Soil

    Easy to find at any gardening store

    You can start with nutrient-rich soil and transplant several times throughout the grow to give your plant what it needs after it’s used up all the nutrients in the soil in it’s current container. If you choose not to continue transplanting to give cannabis more nutrients, you will need to use cannabis nutrients to make sure plants are getting what they need

    You will need to manage and adjust pH for a soil grow, especially if using bottled cannabis nutrients

    Composted Soil – learn about composting your own soil

    You will need to amend and compost your soil to use this method, which can take a lot of time, or buy amended and composted soil from a quality source

    When done right, there’s no need for bottled nutrients or adjusting pH

    Many growers claim that composted organic soil provides the best bud taste and smell

    Soilless Potting Mix – (coco coir, perlite, vermiculite, etc)

    Faster growth than growing in soil

    Starting at the seedling stage, you will need to use cannabis nutrients made for hydro, since soilless mediums do not come with nutrients

    Managing and adjusting pH is crucial to success in a soilless growing medium

    Less likely to get pests or bugs

    How much grow medium to get?

    In the USA, a “3-gallon” plant container usually holds less than 3 gallons (same with 1-gallon, 2-gallon, 5-gallon, etc.). It’s a weird convention in the USA which means a direct conversion between listed gallons and gallons of soil (or conversion to liters) isn’t accurate. A “trade” gallon holds about 3/4 of a “real” gallon. This makes it easy to buy a lot of extra grow medium. To make things more confusing, in the USA not every 3-gallon pot actually holds the same amount of grow medium (it’s not totally standardized). Additionally, smaller companies often give the actual amount. Other factors change how much grow medium you need, including how high you fill the pot and how much it gets compacted. When in doubt, get the listed amount and you’ll always end up with enough or extra grow medium.

    What’s the Best Pot? Containers Explained Table of Contents Which growing container works best for cannabis? What is it that makes some containers better than others? The answers are