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If you’re going to build a grow room that’s not attached to a residence, then you’ll have to factor in all of these same concerns — security, privacy, easy access to water and electricity, ventilation, etc when building the stand-alone grow room. In the video below, an expert grower named Eljay explains the importance of why you want to diagram your grow room first, and exactly how to do it. Planning ahead like this means creating a model of the grow room in the form of a drawing.

This will let you test your ideas and see what fits on a small scale. This is easier to manipulate and make changes, prior to building the room itself. Watch: Once we have chosen our space the first thing we need to do is figure out the square footage and cubic feet of our room. This will tell us how many plants we can put in the room, how much light and cooling we need, and even how long our CO2 burner will run. Take the height, length and width measurements of your grow room and write them down. These measurements are powerful and will be the roadmap to your perfect grow room. We figure these measurements out by measuring our area from side to side, write it down. Then, finally measure top to bottom, write it down.

Draw your grow room, showing the location of your plants, reservoir, any filters, doors, etc. You can do this with computer software as in this picture or draw on a piece of paper, it’s up to you. The next thing you do, once you have your measurements, is to draw your hydro room. You can do this on a computer using a piece of space planning software like Microsoft’s Visio, or on the back of a napkin, whatever is easiest for you. You are trying to achieve a general idea of how your grow room is going to lay out. You want to actually draw where your plants are going to be and section off your actual growing area also known as your “canopy”. You’ll also want to draw where your water reservoir is, and walkways and utility areas “such as your electric panel”. As a “rule of thumb”, you will need about one square foot per plant. Depending on the type of high-value plant you’re growing, you may need more than this. But generally, for planning purposes at this stage — you need to factor in at least one square foot per plant for your diagram. We will be adding to this diagram throughout the next few parts of this series. This is also going to include venting for your lights–a “lighting diagram”. Venting for the room, with “ducting diagrams” and more if necessary. Taking the time to organize yourself during the planning stage will make it easier to see what challenges are ahead and make sure you’ve planned for everything you’ll need. You’ve Found The Perfect Space & You’re Ready To Figure Out Your Lighting and Insulation Needs… In the next installment of this series we will cover: How to calculate EXACTLY how many lights you need for your plants What you absolutely MUST know about insulation for happy crops Electrical safety 101: how to not electrocute yourself! Until next time, please share this article with your friends or anyone you think it can help. Do you dream of long-running, resinous, chunky cannabis colas? Make it a reality in your marijuana garden with high-yield cultivation methods. Keep reading to find out which one is the best method for you. Topping is the process of pruning the growing tip of the main stem of a cannabis plant. This is perhaps the most common HST or high stress training technique applied by both indoor and outdoor growers. Marijuana growing naturally will typically take on a Christmas tree structure; One dominant, main central cola and multiple sets of side branches. All plant parts receiving a share of sunlight at some stage during the day as the sun traverses the sky.

In contrast, indoor cannabis plants receive illumination from a stationary grow lamp positioned above. This makes naturally-shaped cannabis plants inefficient to crop indoors, unless you cultivate in large numbers using the SOG or Sea of Green method. Topping is the method of choice for pro growers to increase yields. It is also favoured by home growers that want to fill out their grow space with a handful of plants, rather than pack in as many as possible. Removing the terminal bud will encourage the development of two new main colas and promote growth of the lower, secondary branches. The aim is to invert the Christmas tree shape to allow more light penetration. Growth hormone is diffused to all of the shoots once the apical bud’s dominance is removed. Branchy, low-profile plants are more desirable to every grower. Indoors, vertical space is often at a premium and outdoors, bushes are stealthier than tall trees. Topping is a great technique to take control of the cannabis canopy.

Top your plants after they’ve developed between 3–5 nodes, as this is when their roots and stems are strong enough to recover from the stress of the process. Plants typically reach this size after around 30 days of vegetative phase. Be mindful that different varieties grow at different speeds. Plants can’t handle topping during the seedling stage. If you try topping during this time, you risk killing or stunting your seedlings.


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