Both sorts of fruit will revert farmland below them to dirt when they grow. Pumpkins can most easily be harvested with an axe, and will drop whole as items. They will also break faster using a sword but at the cost of double durability.
While melons grow as blocks, the melons are broken into 3–7 slices by harvesting (unless a Silk Touch tool is used). In both cases, the harvested fruit can be crafted back into seeds. Harvesting mature stems will also produce seed (1–4 per stem), but it is faster to wait for the already-mature stem to grow a fruit than to regrow a mature stem from seed. ↑ Each chunk has a 1/32 chance of attempting to spawn pumpkins when the chunk is generated; a random point is chosen and 64 attempts are made to find a random air block with grass beneath in a 15×15×7 region around the point in which to place a pumpkin. Note the random point could be far in the air or far underground, greatly reducing the chances of pumpkins being able to be placed. ↑ For each jungle chunk generated a random point is chosen and 64 attempts are made to find a random replaceable block (e.g. air, long grass, or vines) with grass beneath in a 15×15×7 region around the point in which to place a melon. Note the random point could be far in the air or far underground, greatly reducing the chances of melons being able to be placed.
Manual farms [ edit ] This section contains suitable layouts for farms that must be manually harvested. Parenthesized values are theoretical maximums, which assume that there are free blocks surrounding the farm for the border plants to place melons. The maximum possible efficiency for any melon or pumpkin farm is 50% (one fruit per stem). Spaces, where fruit can occupy two or more stems, will reduce the efficiency and yield. Question-mark blocks indicate that anything could be put in that spot—perhaps lighting, or other crops such as wheat, carrots, or potatoes. You will probably want to cover the water with a slab, a lily pad or a carpet. Simple farms [ edit ] The following grids will give you different availabilities for designs of pumpkin and melon farms. If you just want a quick, compact farm, use design D below. C and D have slightly lower efficiency, but both fit on a "standard farm plot", and are easy to harvest. Of those two, D likely has a faster growth rate due to the separated rows of stalks, but the middle row should not be open dirt/grass or farmland (or more stalks), because any fruit spawned there can tie up two stems. For C , the middle row can be anything except more stalks, for the same reason. Design A is slightly larger and maximizes space efficiency. It can be tiled for larger farms, but alternate rows should be mirrored top-to-bottom to keep the efficiency. Design B is least efficient but fits in a slightly smaller plot. Would you like to build a “microgrowery” for your marijuana garden? This tiny plant tutorial will teach you how to grow cannabis plants that stay small yet still produce an abundance of weed! I’ve grown a lot of cannabis plants of all sizes, and I’ll share the most helpful tips and tricks to make cannabis plants grow in the exact shape and size you want. Small plants are easy to hide, yet can still produce a surprising amount of weed. Here are some short cannabis plants I’ve grown: LEDs are probably your best choice in a small space. Notice the size of the slinky compared to the plants. This tutorial will show you how to create short plants with rows of buds in a small space like this. This autoflowering plant grew into a tiny bud ball as a result of blue-spectrum LEDs and being topped after buds started forming (typically a no-no because it stunts autoflowering plants, but can be a good technique if you want to keep plants tiny) I grew these plants in the same waist-high grow tent, but this time using a T5 fluorescent light. A T5 is another great choice for small spaces since they can be kept just inches away from plants. If you’re struggling with cold (for example growing a tiny garden in a garage or basement), fluorescent lights can help keep plants warm. If you want to minimize heat, LEDs are the way to go. Then there’s the incredible world of solo cup plants.
This autoflowering plant I’m growing now is just over a foot (30 cm) tall and buds are getting bigger every day. Quick Summary (how to keep plants small without sacrificing yields) Here’s a quick overview of the tutorial, then I’ll go into the detailed instructions below. Choose a strain that naturally stays small – Today you have access to almost any genetics, almost anywhere in the world. Quick-to-harvest autoflowering strains are often the best choice for producing small plants, though short stature photoperiod strains can work, too. This tutorial shares several strains that have performed great for me in short spaces, and then I’ll share instructions on how to grow your plants so they stay as small as possible. Certain strains like this Black Jack Auto naturally stay small, while still producing great yields! Use the right grow light – Fluorescent lights (like CFLs or T5s) and certain LEDs are great choices for small grow spaces.
I’ll break down the pros and cons of each and share the specific models that have kept plants short for me. Light spectrum – Grow lights with more blue in the spectrum tend to keep plants short, while grow lights with more red can encourage stretching. Restrict root space – Plants in big pots can become the size of trees! Keeping plants in smaller pots tends to keep them from getting as big (like a bonsai tree with restricted roots), but buds will still get fat as long as the plant is receiving plenty of light and nutrients. Pick a “short” grow style – Short plants are often created through one of these grow styles: “Sea of Green” (many small plants in small pots), “Screen of Green” (using a screen), Manifolding (massively manipulate plant shape at a very young age), or other types of plant training (more on that below).