If the plant is exposed to light during the dark period, it won’t flower properly. I usually choose to have the lights on from 9PM to 9AM and to let my plants sit in the darkness during the day. The biggest advantage is that you can cool off your room more easily. During the day, when the sun is out and it’s warm, no lamps will be on. And at night, when it’s colder, you can better manage the temperature by letting fresh, cold air into the room when it gets too warm inside.
The flowering stage doesn’t start immediately after forcing your plants to flower. Your plant will produce flowering hormones during the first two weeks and will grow a lot to develop the flowering structure. The plant will get taller and the internodes (distance between the buds) is shortened. This looks more like a growing stage than a flowering stage, so take this into account when thinking about the nutrients you’re giving your plants. Phosphor and potassium are true flowering fertilizers, but because your plants are actually still growing, they still need a lot of nitrogen. Wait a bit longer with flowering nutrients and keep giving your plants a lot of nitrogen-rich nutrients. Light cycle: 12 hours of light – 12 hours of darkness Light color: orange-red – HPS Temperature: 70 – 77 degrees Humidity: 60% Fertilizer: 1.0 – 1.2 pH: 6.0. They have nice, big, green leaves that can catch a lot of light. You can still see the floor of the grow room a little bit, but it will be completely covered in about a week.
They use more than 1/8 gallons of water a day, so the evaporation is also properly taking place. I set the time switch to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness in order to start the flowering. The plants will still grow a lot during the first two weeks of flowering. The changes in the light cycle cause the plants to produce different hormones that start the flowering stage. We’ll see the first small buds in about two weeks from now. I now give them 1/8 gallons of water with an EC value of 1.0 every other day. Some leaves show a bit of discoloration so I’ll take it easy with the nutrients for a bit. I also hang the lamp a bit higher, because the plants have grown a lot. Since the plants will continue to grow for now, I give them the same nutrients as before, which is rich in nitrogen. Here’s a bit on the most important nutrients for marijuana plants. A plant creates its own food by converting water and CO2 into sugars and oxygen, with the help of light. In addition, there are some important elements the plant absorbs through its roots. The three most important ones are nitrogen (N), phosphor (P) and potassium (K). Nitrogen is important for the production of chlorophyll, which is used to absorb light. It also promotes the growth of stems, leaves and buds. A plant therefore needs a lot of nitrogen during the growing stage. Phosphor also plays an important role in the energy supply and respiration of the plant. It promotes the development of the roots of young plants and the flowering of mature plants. Phosphor is very important to your plants during the entire cultivation. Potassium is a vital substance for the production and transportation of sugars inside the plant. It gives the plant firmness, makes it resistant to fungi and diseases and helps in the formation of the roots. In addition, it’s very important in the formation and growth of the buds. Potassium is therefore necessary during the entire cultivation, but the plant can use additional potassium during the last couple of weeks of flowering to create thick, hard buds. There are other elements that are also important to your plants. Read the course Nutrients for marijuana plants for more background information on the nutrient needs of a plant.
The plants still look great and use a large amount of water.
The temperature and humidity are also perfect, so these plants are thriving. I keep watering them every other day and keep the EC level on 1.0 for now and the pH at 6.0. Last time I had some discoloration on the leaves and when I just opened my tent I saw some tiny bugs flying around.